Saturday, 18 August 2012

EYBC - L'Argentiere - 2012

Three weeks ago the last round of the European Youth Bouldering Championships was drawing near and it was time to start packing. Between the last one and this; I had upped my training because I knew I needed to get stronger. So when it came to the comp I was feeling pretty good.

The comp was held in L’Argentiere France where I had been twice before. It helped a lot to know the area and to know where the supermarkets were. It was boiling the whole time we were there and I wasn’t complaining as I love the heat. On the day of the qualifiers I managed 3 tops and was close to 3 or 4 others. Only me and one other managed to get all the bonuses which made me feel a bit better about my result. I ended up in 13th place. I thought I could have done a bit better but after seeing my overall European Junior ranking at 10th, I thought that was pretty good. It was nice to see Dave Barrans and Ellie Howard cheering me on in the crowd.

Whilst at the comp we met some really nice people who put us up for a night on our last day there. The final was really good to watch however much I wanted to be doing it. Hopefully next year it won’t be just me going from Britain.


Thursday, 7 June 2012

Vail World Cup by Mina-Leslie Wujastyk


Having arrived and spent a few days in Colorado, I was really psyched to climb on rock so it was a bit strange to put that on hold and head to Vail for the World Cup.  Don’t get me wrong, I was psyched for the competition but it was an odd transfer from being really excited for rock to getting ready to try hard on plastic.  We set off from Boulder with a van full of people and it looked to be a good weekend; everyone was feeling good, the weather was nice and the views on the drive spectacular.

Photo by Will Hummel
I was excited for the qualifying round, in a good mood and ready to do my best.  I really enjoyed this round, I felt I climbed well although I could have climbed better…  I have a tendency to mess up on the last moves of problems.  I am still not sure if this is because the last moves are really hard or if I psyche myself out when I get there, perhaps a combination of both.  The third problem was the highlight of the whole weekend for me.  It was a backwards double dyno out of a roof with a burly, basic finish up a steep wall.  I looked at the problem, pulled into the start position for the jump and thought “hmmm this might be beyond me but I’ll have a throw”.  I caught the jump first go and pushed through to the top, surprising myself by flashing the problem.  I can’t describe the adrenalin and psyche that I had at that moment, which must be what it feels like to be one of the top people that just pulls it out of the bag all the time!

I qualified for the semi finals in 16th place.  Very happy, I had achieved my goal by making the semis but I was still eager to do well the next day.  I won’t go into tons of detail but I didn’t climb very well in the semis.  I made lots of silly mistakes, misread the problems and generally just didn’t sort myself out.  I am not sure what went wrong really, I don’t think the problems were far beyond me…I just seemed to be missing some kind of something!   

Well done again to Shauna who keeps doing brilliantly!

Photo by Will Hummel